• kidsrace_banner
  • gobsign1kx360L
  • states13_1kx360
  • flcxroad_banner

How Do I Do The Cyclocross? (Part 3 in a series)

On August 24, 2013 by Christian

Clipless Pedals. Hopefully you already use them in some form on your road bike. They make everything better. I’m not going to teach you how to use them here, but I will compare and contrast some arguements for the three main options that were brought up in the Facebook post about pedals, which was started by Carlos Iglesias.

The bottom line is, you want a pedal that’s easy for you to clip in and out of, that won’t break halfway through a race, and won’t fill up with mud, dirt, and grass. We don’t have snow and ice to worry about here, but if we did that might be a consideration as well. Because of the frequency of clipping out and in, you should be familiar enough with your pedals that you don’t really have to think about the process as it happens, so if you’re not, start practicing now.

If you are brand spanking new to CX, and you don’t use clipless pedals, you certainly can use flat pedals, although it would scare me to death to do so personally. Toe Clips and Straps will work as well, but really, honestly, clipless pedals are so much easier and connect your to the bike so much better and you can get into and out of them so much easier that, really, just get the shoes and pedals and figure out how to work them and move on with your life.


Crank Brothers Egg Beaters
Shimano SPD

All three brands have cheap, heavy models, and expensive, light models. Personally, I’ve used Shimano SPD’s and Time ATACs and I prefer the Time. I like the “float” and the mud shedding characteristics. You might like less float, or no float. If that’s the case, Shimano is probably a better choice for you.

Directly from the thread:

Timothy Reese From my mtn biking experience with Eggbeaters, they are extremely easy to bail out of. It depends if you like that or not I suppose.

Jason Guillen SPD’s despite [the fact that] they will get more mud in the cleat, I tried eggbeaters and I couldn’t hit my pedals at all. I don’t like the float on eggbeaters and I pull up on my pedals a lot apparently because I kept ripping my feet out of them the few times I’ve ridden on them. SPD’s I can tighten down to the point my feet have zero float which is my preference on road and offroad.

Kurt Leverett Whatever you can clip into fast and every time. Lots of on and off the bike so you don’t want waste time “trying to get clipped in. My fav[e] was Time – they had a platform and did not clog up with mud.

Ryan Fisher I’ve been on eggbeaters for ever and they’re mostly fine. Performance-wise it’s prob[ably] a wash. I think crank bros had some QC issues for a while and people had pedals pulling of spindles and such. I never really had that problem but heard of it from several others.


SPD tend to lose tension rather quickly and eggbeaters break a lot more than anyone else. In all seriousness, take a look at Time pedals.

Rich Dybdahl I had an Eggbeater break on me at Swamp Cross 2011. Finished the race one legged. I love my Time pedals but they are heavy so I still race [Eggbeater] Candy pedals. Might try SPD this year if Jason says they are good.

From this point the facebook thread starts repeating opinions already expressed and then devolves into the usual hijinks, but this should give you some ideas as far as the three major brands. But what about cheap Wellgo or Nashbar or Performance branded SPD clone pedals, you might be asking. As with any other component on your bike, you generally get what you pay for. Yes, there are other pedals out there, and they may be cheaper, and they might work perfectly well. Then again, they might not.

Shoes are another important factor to consider, as they connect to the pedals. All of the pedals you should be considering use the standard two bolt mounting system on the sole of the shoe. Less expensive shoes are going to be heavier and more flexible than more expensive ones. You want a little bit of flex in the shoe, for the little bit of running we do, and it’s not a bad idea to have the ability to screw soccer style cleats into the toe of the shoe, either. Toe cleats provide additional traction when you’re running in loose dirt and mud. I used them in Clermont, and didn’t slip once on the run up. Popular brands include Specialized, Mavic, Shimano, and Sidi, but there’s plenty of decent CX shoes that I haven’t mentioned. Go visit your local shop and check out what they offer and recommend.

How Do I Do The Cyclocross? (part 2 of a series)

On August 24, 2013 by Christian

It probably would have made more sense to run today’s article yesterday, because today’s article is about setting up your first Cyclocross bike, and obviously you need a bike before you can start riding through the grass with it. But life is full of things that don’t always make sense, so here’s the FLCX guide to setting up your first CX Bike.

Let me get this out of the way immediately. YOU DON’T HAVE TO SPEND A LOT OF MONEY ON A BIKE. Go ahead and read that sentence again, a few times, if need be. Spending $1000 or more to try out a sport you might not enjoy is silly. So don’t do it.

You can, and many people have in the past, put together a bike that they rescued from a dumpster, and had a great time learning to ride CX on it. The best thing about CX in the beginner categories (4/5) is that you can ride any bike with any tire on it. You can ride a hybrid/fitness bike with flat bars. You can ride a fifteen year old Specialized 26″ wheeled hard-tail mountain bike with a Rock Shok on it. You can even ride your road bike with road slicks, if you’re really feeling masochistic, and you’re supremely confident in your bike handling skills, and the course is dry and free of mud. You can ride a fat bike with 3 inch tires- you’ll be a hero and everyone will cheer for you! You can even buy a used CX bike (although right now is the worst time to buy one, because everyone is trying to buy a used CX bike, and you know how capitalism works.) One thing to remember: a single speed CX bike is the cheapest option of all, and shouldn’t be ignored. They’re fun, and usually just about as fast as a geared bike, at least under the right person. Plus you can race the party race.

The bottom line is, all you need is a bike that fits you that can handle riding on grass, dirt, and sand, and doesn’t weigh a billion pounds. Many older steel framed road bikes, particularly those that were intended for touring, will work. Touring bikes have the advantage of cantilever brake studs being welded on the frame already, giving you more clearance for tires and mud than the caliper brakes on road bikes. Virtually all hybrid/fitness bikes also have cantilever brakes, making them ideal for conversions as well. V-Style brakes will work just as well, if not even better, than cantilever brakes, but don’t offer as much mud clearance. Obviously, disc brakes will work just fine, but they probably will not be found on your average $150 Craigslist special.

To make sure your CX bike fits you properly, there’s a vast amount of advice out on the internets, but as a general rule of thumb, you want a bike with a top tube that’s a little shorter (and a little lower) than the top tube on your road bike, and a stem that’s a little shorter too. You want the brake hoods to be higher, because that’s where your hands are going to be for 95% of the race. Watch this if you won’t take my word for it, it’s @resultsboy’s girlfriend last fall in Providence.

Or just watch it cause it’s NECX and it’s rad. Whatever makes you happy.


If you’re on a 29er or a 700c bike, there’s a world of CX tires out there. As with road tires, the more you spend, the higher quality and lighter they are. You’re probably going to start off on clinchers, and that’s fine to start with if you’re not certain that CX is something you’re destined to do for a lifetime- tubular tires are certainly better, but are also more expensive and more complicated to repair if a flat occurs. There are three basic types of tires- Mud tires, with the largest knobs, Intermediate or All-Around tires, and file treads. You should probably start off with the Intermediate or All Around type of tire, as it works the best in a wide variety of conditions.

If you’re on a 26″ wheeled bike, you can certainly ride whatever MTB tires came with the bike, but it will lighten the bike up if you switch to a narrower knobby tire.


Cantilever Brakes have been traditionally used on CX bikes for years because they provide more clearance for mud. They come in a variety of shapes and none of them will stop you like your road bike’s brake do. This shouldn’t alarm you, because you don’t want to come to a shuddering stop at anytime while racing, you just want to slow down enough to navigate around the corners.

V-Brakes are a lot more powerful than Canti’s, but have a lot less mud clearance. Since we don’t have a lot of mud in FLCX, many riders down here swear by them.

Disc Brakes are usually found on Mountain Bikes, and if your bike already has them, you’re stuck with them. They are being forced into CX by the bike manufacturers, so you’ll be seeing more and more of them. They work very well.


If your bike started with flat or riser MTB handlebars, you’re probably best off leaving those in place. If it came with bar ends, you will have to remove them to race. If it came with drop bars, you will want them to be the same width as the bars on your road bike. You’ll want to mount the brake levers a little higher than you have them on your road bike. Hopefully, the bike has shifters integrated into the brakes (brifters), if not, your life is a little more complicated, since you have to take your hand off the bars to shift. It’s 2013, most bikes have had brifters for years now. If you really want to make your flat barred bike into a drop bar bike, take it to a bike shop and ask them what you need. Bring money, too.


Read the very next story in the series!

Jackonsville Cyclocross Training Race Series Flyer!

On August 23, 2013 by Super Rookie

The Jacksonville cyclocross training series returns for the fourth year at Boone Park on the west side of the city. These events are a lot of fun and they always get a decent turnout. Many of us have ventured to JAX for the racing over the years and it is common to see 30-50 people lining up for the fun. It should be noted that the races have bumped up a few weeks which should allow for more racing in the daylight, but the later races would require some kind of light.

Get on it!

  • $10 entry
  • Five weeks
  • Thursday Nights (no racing on Sept. 19th)

More information available at USA Cycling and myfbra.org


How do I do the Cyclocross? (part one of a series)

On August 19, 2013 by Christian

You’d be surprised how many people ask me that question. Well, maybe not just me, but people of my ilk, ie those who have been telling any sentient being within a 12 meter radius just how great CX is and how they should try it immediately. Florida CX is actually a good place to learn CX, because our mild fall and early winter weather makes it much easier on you, your equipment, and the terrain we regularly ride on, so you’re not constantly falling over in mud pits and tearing rear deraileurs off your bike because they’re coated in 47 pounds of mud and various grasses, like you would be in New England or Oregon. Of course, there are people who will insist that the terrible conditions are what makes CX what it is in the first place, and while they are at least half right, they are also masochists and very likely partially insane. All that being said, we live in Florida and we make do with what we have.

The image most associated with CX is usually riders carrying the bikes over barriers or running up a steep hill, and many beginners are most concerned with “how do I dismount?” and “how should I get back on?” Let me tell you: Don’t worry about it. Yet. Dismounts and running are at most 30 seconds of each 5-9 minute lap. We’ll cover those later.

The first thing you’re going to want to practice is riding your CX bike in the grass. There’s a lot of different types of grass, and there’s grass on pretty much every single CX course I can think of, so knowing how your bike handles in the various types of turf is going to help you. The first thing you’re going to notice is “Holy Crap, I can go 20mph all day on pavement, and now I’m dying to go 9mph.” You’re probably pedaling in St. Augustine, which is the thick-bladed spongy rooted stuff, that people like for their lawns. St. Augustine grass just seems to suck your tires into it, and you can literally use it’s insanely high level of friction instead of your brakes when you’re diving into a corner. Bahia grass is faster than St. Augustine, it’s thinner and much less dense. The bulk of the grass we encounter in FLCX is Bahia, so it shouldn’t be too hard for you to locate a park or a school or a soccer field to practice on some Bahia. As the season goes on, and the rains become less frequent, Bahia thins even more and gets faster and easier to pedal through. Both Bahia and St. Augustine have extensive, durable root systems, which means you will rarely slide out while cornering, unless the grass is exceptionally damp. There is also wild grass, which we encounter in Clermont, Gainesville, and Melbourne. It tends to grow in clumps, and is exceptionally lumpy, particularly in Clermont and Melbourne, so you really have to pay attention and keep your hands on the bars lest a particularly nasty clump grabs your front wheel and sends you to the ground.

All CX courses are mowed prior to the race, so you’re never going to have to navigate through knee high weeds, unless you have an off course adventure. Grass of any type is going to provide more traction than sand, and usually more than packed dirt as well. It’s the rare (for us) occasions that we have a lot of moisture on the grass that it can get slippery, but even then, running a tire with widely spaced knobs is usually enough to keep your bike heading the direction you want it to go. A semi-slick or file tread tire will work in dry grass, but will slide around a lot more in the wet.

To practice riding grass, you should focus first on just getting used to pedaling through it without going anaerobic. Ride around the perimeter of a soccer field for 20 or 30 minutes, for instance. When this gets boring, add some corners to your route. Loop around trees or benches or bring out some cones. Practice the fastest line through two or three corners in a row. Try it from both directions. Trust your tires, but learn where the limits of their adhesion is. You’re going to want to use your brakes as little as you can get away with, especially on a flat course, and you’re going to use a lot less front brake than rear brake than you do on the road. Try using less and less brake. Momentum is everything- the faster you get through a corner, the less the need to accelerate out of it. Since accelerating pretty much always involves you sprinting, or at least pedaling harder, it’s also going to involve pain. Obviously, it’s a great idea to practice accelerating out of corners, over and over again, because that is a skill you will absolutely need come race day.

Once you’ve worked on the basics of just pedaling in grass, and then cornering and then accelerations, you can put it all together and set up a little course for some hot laps. Some advice for that: if you’re sharing a park with other users, respect them, and don’t run them over. Dog walkers and soccer parents are super touchy about their pets/children, and really don’t like you buzzing around them when you’re drooling from pedaling so hard you can’t see straight. Set up your course to interfere with their comings and goings as little as possible. I know the sand in the playground seems like a great sand pit, but not if there’s kids playing on the jungle gym. Use your best judgement, so you can continue to use the park without hassles from the MAN.

Now that I’ve got the warning out of the way, here’s how to set up your course. Find a complex of soccer fields or an un-fenced public school or a larger public park, preferably one with lights, since the time change will affect us eventually. Then ride around the perimeter of the property. Weave in and out of trees, slaloming and creating hairpins and long, lung burning straightaways linking up the curvy sections. A course length anywhere from 6/10th to one mile in length is ideal. Try to have some pavement, some dirt, and well as some grass on your loop, most likely it will mostly be grass and that’s ok. Here’s a course we used last year at Puryear Park in St. Pete to give you some ideas.

Learn Cyclocross: Gainesville

On August 15, 2013 by Super Rookie

It is well known that cyclocross is the sport of the future.

If you are near Gainesville come out to the Rock starting next Wednesday night at 630pm to learn all about it.

Contact Swift Cycle if you have any questions. All cyclists welcome.

Edinburgh Cyclocross Challenge Flyer!

On July 16, 2013 by Super Rookie

Cyclocross season is right around the corner and the first race of the exciting year is almost upon us!

FLCX Summer Update

On July 6, 2013 by Super Rookie

I have gone through and updated the official calendar to list out the races and the new cross race in Dunedin!

Cross is getting bigger and bigger in Florida.

FLCX Summer Chatter

On June 12, 2013 by Christian

Judging by all the comments and general carrying on over on the FLCX facebook page, people are getting pretty excited about the upcoming season, and it’s hard to blame them. Lots of new races, promoters, and racers are stepping forward, there are already some training races popping up, and we haven’t even reached the first official day of summer yet. Keep checking back with us here, or on the book of faces, for all the news you can use.

As a reminder, the Clermont Short Track event is happening tomorrow night at the National Training Center. That’s the same place that the Clermont CX is held, but it’s a much different course- lots and lots of climbing, a little bit of descending, and no running, unless you show up even earlier and do the CrossCountry 5k. That’s a whole lot of uphill, too. Anyway, that starts around 7, more info is here.

Up in Mt. Dora, Rich Dybdahl is running a CX practice at the Mt. Dora trailhead on Tuesdays, give him a shout at his shop, Pure Cycles, for times and dates.

The Gainesville crowd at Swift Cycle are running their Summer MTB Series, check out their website for more info on fat tired sweaty summer fun in the dirt.

Let us know if you have an event to add to the list!


On April 2, 2013 by Super Rookie

Here is the tentative FLCX Schedule for the upcoming season.

The final schedule should be uploaded by May 1st, 2013.


On January 28, 2013 by Super Rookie

The idea started here in Florida.

We will now take it to the World Championships and share with all our friends.

For more information head to the official #louisville2013foamparty website.